The
Shipmate Uncensored
They
come from all walks. Stumbling in
their youth to the calling.
Detecting salt in their senses, and like a salmon to its natal stream
they migrate to the waterfront seeking passage aboard a ship. They feel the pull of the adventure,
and are beckoned by the promise of good wages. They come from an uneducated class, and upon the first port
of call some will jump ship, the romance beaten out of them by the relentless
sea, and those are never to return, but the others will retain their
berth. They will retain the
life. It becomes all they
know. Their education the waves,
their teachers the harsh salts who sometimes subtly, sometimes not, conform and
initiate them into the intricacies of living aboard ship, to the small rituals
and courtesies that make a shipmate; cleanliness, hard work, and a thickened
hide capable of brushing off curses and ridicule. In time they grow old, some advance in the ranks, some do
not advance at all, but instead find mastery in the work of their rate. Stubbornly they have persisted on
whatever course they chose, or that which was chosen for them, until they
become dependent on it. Always
keen to give it up, but to never retire, they continue on in dualistic
confusion, both loving and hating it.
Then some finally break away to be terrified by the silence of the land,
their bodies worn and plagued by deficiencies of hearing and sight, and in
their journey always the question of why?
Why are some called to the lonely austerity of this way of life? Why are some meant for the pleasant
home and hearth, the mortgage, the white picketed fence with the happy dog and
happy children, but not them?
What commonality with their shipmates can explain this universal fate of
men of the sea?
Sailors
in general maintain a blue-collar work ethic. Unfathomable to them is the concept of four office walls and
a desk. Give them the open sea
air, the manual task, and three square meals a day and they will soon be at
home. They both welcome and loathe
hard work. The problem of a task
presented, like a riddle to be solved, entices them, but soon they will find
the easiest way to circumnavigate their chore, for their list of projects
extends on and is never finished.
And so they do what they might, and they do it steady as she goes. This is not true for all, for some are
incredibly lazy, performing minor tasks over great lengths of time, skating by
as it is called, but not all aboard ship are true sailors either.
Most
of these men do not consider their future. They live in the moment. They will work until they die. Therefore, as soon as their check is deposited it is already
spent. Trucks, guns, Saturday
nights, boats, and big toys, they work hard to save for the freedom of being
ashore, and then the money goes by the wayside, as does time, and soon they are
at sea again. Most lack a college
experience, but not intelligence, and so ignorance, not stupidity, plagues
them. Racism would be an example
of their ignorance. It
unfortunately is prevalent here.
Nor would they consider themselves stewards of the sea, but instead the
sea a beloved adversary of which they pollute with out regard for their
actions.
So
it goes, too, with their health.
Once sailors were worked hard on to maintain both rig and hull, and they
in return were maintained through some poor ration of salted meats. Today the cupboards are filled with
junk, and with ample time on hand between strenuous tasks the majority have
complicated health problems. They
are always trying to lose weight, and they are trying to quit smoking. But they demand their prime rib on
Wednesdays and the ice cream stores replenished weekly with hot brownies to
accompany. They eat their bacon
sandwiches on white bread with mayonnaise slopped on one slice and butter on
the other. And, sadly, without
having spirits aboard ship so goes the hope of kicking the nicotine. The environment they are subjected to
is one of constant noise, heavy lifting of lines hard on the back and knees,
and the ever-present diesel fumes, all these things take their toll in
time.
And
without women it is a bachelor quarters.
After two weeks at sea the innuendos become increasingly jarring, and by
the end of two months… What is the
difference between high school and tugboats? Adult supervision.
Tugboaters are boys at best, jesting and picking, crude in humor,
profane in language and habit, and unable to control their urges.
It
should also be noted that there is a class of young mariners. They are the ones who come in during
the in-between periods of their lives for the adventure of it. They are innocent, often energetic, and
usually somewhat educated. They
are like Dana, who committed the two years following his education before the
mast. Yet these do not stick
around, ever present in the moment, ever enticed by the romance of it, and ever
looking for their way out.
A Crew of Six
The Captain:
There
was barefoot Charlie, who walked about the ship, weather decks, and engine room
barefooted. He would peer through
his old, scratched beyond transparency, coke bottle glasses at some weather
fax, then throw it away and mumble, ‘doesn’t matter how big the waves, its just
what direction they come from,’ all the while the ship getting knocked about in
the trough of some swelling sea. Tall, with wavy auburn hair he would enter the
galley in the morning and say, ‘There he is. What’s for lunch?
Chef’s surprise?’ Certainly
autistic, he was a treasure trove of facts, particularly concerning Mark Twain
and oysters.
Then
there was the former Master Chief in the Coast Guard, turned tugboater, a
legend in his own mind, and whatever experience you might have had in life, he
had one better and more relevant.
Never quite grasping how it was that he could stay in such good health
when all the others around him were overweight smokers, and still he drew the
unfortunate lot of getting cancer.
And so in a renaissance of self help he discovered a book on the supposed
evils of wheat and became obsessed, much to the cook’s chagrin, with a grain /
starch free diet. He would peer
across the table to the deckhand who was having a helping of potatoes, and
mumble under his breath, ‘uugh, wheat.’
The deckhand looking up in confusion.
There
was the best of the fleet. The
captain that had run his own salmon boat in Alaska, working on tugs in his off
time. ‘I have been a failure in my
life,’ he said. ‘I am no more than
a tugboat captain.’ But, he would
add, of his three kids all have college degrees, and two have doctorates. It was there that he had
succeeded.
And
the worst, a large man who had troubles negotiating the ladderwells, awkward
and given to arbitrary fits and demeaning comments. The table he kept a most somber affair. He presided from the head, breathing
heavily over his food with a dim countenance, as he took obligatory bite after
obligatory bite to appease the cook.
Then without word of thanks, or without any show of appreciation
theatrically discarded half of his plate into the slop bucket and took a candy
bar with him to the wheel house, where he would sit and read magazines
conveying the latest bulletin of celebrity gossip, and listen to satellite
radio crime reports.
Or
the well meaning old man that must have gained mastery of circular breathing as
he was able to curse continuously in a voice that could be heard over the
engines and tow winch, spraying indiscriminately his tobacco spittle across the
back deck. But when a good joke
was at hand his eyes all alight, and his laughter deafening, and he would say,
‘I like you. I don’t care what the
chief says about you. You’re my
kind of people.’
The Chief Mate:
Next
in line is the chief mate, and his responsibility is to see the captain’s
orders carried out. If the captain
is a liaison between the offices and the ship then the chief mate is the
liaison between the captain and the crew.
If you have any problems you take them up with him. Even if the crew is cursed with a bad
captain then it is his role to provide a buffer between the two. The chief mate assists the captain in
landing the barge, directs the sailors as they are making tow, or handling
mooring lines. In general, from my
experiences, after a few weeks at sea the small eccentricities of people can
become unbalanced to the point of insanity, but it is his role to maintain some
semblance of order.
Where
the captains have ranged in personalities, the chief mates have all been a
constant. They are hardened men
with a cool head and a sense of humor who look over the crew instead of down on
them.
The Second Mate:
Those
of you familiar with sea literature may also be familiar with the loathsome
rank of second mate. Rated as a
deck officer, he is one yet fully initiated into the wheelhouse. Whatever menial tasks despised by
the captain and chief mate get passed on to the second mate. He stands the hardest watches, and
relieves the chief mate for chow, thus always eating last. The second mate most often has
progressed up from being a deckhand, and so is also in charge of keeping the
deckhand employed with tasks, and often falls the blame onto him when the head
is not properly cleaned, or the wheelhouse windows not washed. Ambitious and young, the second is
often overly eager to do his task well.
Not
often well experienced, there is the infamous story of the particular second
mate who would overzealously navigate his whole watch with his binoculars about
his neck, alternately glancing from them to the GPS, and in time inevitably
steamed over a crab pot, for it did not show up on the chartplotter, nor could
he see its close proximity through his glasses.
Or
the other mate right out of the Academy who brought up his blanket on the
midnight watch, propped his feet up and took a good nap as the auto pilot
navigated its way through the intricate and well traveled inside passage from
Seattle into Southeast Alaska, only to be roused by the Captain, who did not
throw his usual fit, but instead simply said, ‘Pack your shit,’ and so left him
on the docks in Ketchikan.
The Chief Engineer:
Of
all the crew the chief engineer has the most freedom. He has reign over the vast intricate systems that drive the
boat and is indispensible in his abilities to provide not only the necessities
of propulsion, but also the luxuries of running water, toilets, air
conditioning, and electricity. He
is also the most often roused from his rack in the odd hours for some
discrepancy or another, and so is a collector of overtime pay. The captain relies on him, and the two
are often at odds. The captain
breaks what the engineer has to fix.
Engineers are as obstinate as the captain, masters of their own right,
and few have I met that I have not wondered what effects years of being
subjected to diesel might have on their stability.
There
was my first encounter with an engineer.
A stocky built man, he was known as having the best hair in the
company. A silver fox, his mane
kept immaculately slicked back.
For a man that worked amid grease and wastewater he was notorious for
his obsessive cleanliness. Also
known for his alcoholic dependency he was a man of temper, who would erupt into
childish tantrums at a whim, so as to even false charge sailors, like a grizzly
might an intruder, then in the next instant shake his head and calmly explain
that he is not an asshole, but that you are just an idiot.
Then
there was the other, who walked about much like mister Magoo tampering with
this or that and smiling on meeting you saying how much he loved his job, truly
trying to convince himself of his own sincerity. A self-proclaimed bleeding heart liberal whose child-like
smile would contradictorily turn to sharp scorn upon any show of
environmentalism. Perhaps an
effort to justify his intimate association with fossil fuels he would argue
that Mars was warming, too, but nobody wants to shut down the car factories
there. One never knew whether, or
how, to argue with such odd logic, and so let him pass on his way, for once he
branded you as a tree hugger, you were no good to him.
Or
the other, a silent strange little man with that perpetual cigarette hanging
from his mouth while he cleansed some engine part in a sink of diesel, his pale
eyes flashing erratically from one task to the other, who subsisted off of a
diet of rice soaked in milk and sugar.
And
are you familiar with the Walrus and the Carpenter from Alice’s
Wonderland? The engineer that was
identical to the Walrus in so many ways.
A foul human being, never to be trusted among women or children. Who spent his time in the Philippines
between trips, and of his sexual obsessions there he was not modest, or humane,
enough to not recount. Who, on a
tested occasion, would eat anything placed before him without pausing to take
note of what it was he was eating.
An odd childlike humor, save his lack of civility, he was hard to
dislike, genuinely worried for your safety, and easy to trust at his job, but
personally one to be avoided.
The Deckhand:
The
deckhand is responsible for the cleanliness and preservation of the ship. One considered himself no more than a
boat janitor, to which he was not pleased, but was also correct. However, in the old days one could earn
a reputation as a stalwart deckhand, and in that way gain just as much respect
as is carried by the captain. When
an international sailor is introduced in our company usually he fills this
billet, and stays in it for the duration of his career.
There
was a Polish deckhand. A
63-year-old man, dedicated to his work, as long as he only had to sail to
Hawaii. A man whom you thought
spoke decent English, for he always nodded and said, ‘Yes, Yes, I know this,’
then would go on and do exactly what it was that he was doing, wanted to do, or
just the complete opposite of what you were asking. A man that loved to fish, cried enthusiastically when the
first flying fish was spotted as the ship entered the tropics, and would leap
for the line when a Mahi was landed, and then would save the heads to make his
fish head stew. Who, also, would
appear on the back deck in his Speedo, his balled fists on his waist as he
puffed out his chest and allowed with satisfaction his skin to absorb the
vitamin D of the sun while taking in the sea air.
And
also a Mexican fellow, who would take any joke about being a Mexican, but would
refuse with great pride being treated like one. Missing a few digits on his extremities, he began his career
working the canneries in Dutch Harbor before signing on with a crab boat. He brings his own, ‘Mexican Ketchup,’
some distilled pepper sauce concoction that he spreads liberally atop of
everything, and that is to say literally everything, and which the engineer
blames for any deficiency or complication regarding the head or plumbing.
Or
the last of the old breed. A
deckhand whose first name was forgotten as he assumed for himself the title of
his rank, AB (Able Bodied)
Smith. A man colorfully decorated
from the neck down. He had hinges
tattooed to his joints and various ships and sealore about his person. He bounced about the deck, always smoking,
as he worked quickly and efficiently from one task to the next, always with a
quick solution for whatever was broken, and always ready to help, the perfect
shipmate sober, and apparently the worst while drunk. Who once came into the wheelhouse and proclaimed that he had
decided that his problem with keeping his last three wives had been
himself. ‘You think,’ the captain
said, near falling out of his chair.
God rest his soul, he has passed now.
The Cook:
The
cook is the lowest and most humble of positions aboard ship. After having studied the lore of the
sea I am convinced of at least one commonality aboard any ship; that being that
the cook is innately eccentric, almost to the point of insanity. Having met a number of cooks, my theory
was more or less confirmed, so I was loathe to accept a position on a tug as
one. However, I still stand by my
assessment as a generality.
The
stories around the galley table abound.
Out of the box Bob, received this sobriquet for all that he knows how to
cook comes from out of a box, and he is not inclined to broaden his culinary
skills. There is the other veteran
cook, who worked on crabbers for thirty years before retiring to tugs. He has a ten-day menu he rotates
through, and so there is little surprise in his fair. He will bully you into a cribbage game, then throw the deck
at you should he loose. Or the one
they call Squirrel who has yet
learned the intricacies of the meat thermometer, and even for him to put out a
half cooked raw slab of pork would be a great achievement, and too much effort
for him to even attempt a side. Or
the one cook who served a lunch of canned chicken noodle soup, having not even
taken the soup from the cans, he left out enough cans for each crewmember to
have one, with the opener beside them, and a bag of saltines.
In
short defense of my colleagues, the cook’s position is often referred to as
being the most difficult job on the ship.
Where as others can take shortcuts here and there, the cook’s work is
always on display. Where as
Sundays are referred to as Sailor Holidays, the cook has to prepare lunch and
dinner everyday for the duration of the cruise. When hiring new sailors to the tugboat profession our
company starts them as a cook.
However,
the position of cook can usually weigh heavily on moral. Good food can make a good cruise go by
quickly, and since the cook is responsible for the common space of the galley
it is often up to him to set the tone of that space. He can often end up becoming the ship’s psychologist and
doctor. Should he so chose to
fulfill such a roll.
But,
it ought be said, that sailors will always complain about two things; the
weather and the food. Therefore, I
take it as a great compliment that I often hear them complain of the food on their
other voyages, but have yet to complain of mine.
To conclude;
And
so in our little world we are a society of six. And how this society interacts dictates what kind of trip it
will be. Some boats have worked
out a well-formed crew. The Malolo, due to the unique position she
fills and her long rotation, is one of those few. The men here have become like family to one
another. They know each other’s stories
and eccentricities. They are aware
of each other’s problems and whatever aspiration or scheme each might be
working to. And so they are a hard
society in which to be admitted.
There
is apprehension when you crew up.
You do not know whom your companions for the next month, or even two,
will be. You watch as your
shipmates enter with their belongings.
They enter quietly, isolated, their head down, there is never a formal
introduction, and it may be days before you make any kind of acquaintance, or
find any common interests among them.
And when the trip is over they will all pack their sea bags, and just as
quietly as when they crewed up so they are discharged back into their life,
often without a word of fare thee well.
For them it has been 20, 30, 40 years of shipmates come and gone, some for
better, some for the worse, and each shipmate with some reason that brought
them to sea. In time they have all
sailed on, and some day they go by the wayside, not to be heard from
again. These friendships are often
as fluid as the passing waves, and the men have become hardened by this
fact. Often of diverse backgrounds
and experiences, they are bound together by only a thread of commonality in the
intricately laid rope of their being, and that commonality is that they are of
the waves, vested into the ancient society. In the duality of their lives none ashore share this with
them, or fathom the other half of the sailor’s life, but their shipmates
understand their struggles as the whole, and they need no introduction to each
other, and in that way out here we are all of one common crew.
I have zero desire to drag my large self onto a tug, carrier, or canoe. I do, however, wait eagerly for this blog to be updated and can almost smell the salt air and taste the succulent crab. Thank you sir for the sharing of this world on the sea.
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